Burmese Lacquerware Workshop

While researching Myanmar for our recent trip, I read that Bagan was famous for it's lacquerware, and at the time I wasn't too excited about it, mostly because I don't collect knick knacks and I don't have many decorative items in my home that are not handmade by me or someone I know.


That all changed when I spotted my first piece of lacquerware being sold outside the first temple we visited in Old Bagan. The bright colors and the smooth black background of the lacquerware just begged to be touched. But even after I discovered how gorgeous lacquerware was, I was still reluctant to buy anything. 


Myinkaba is a small village outside of Old Bagan, and it is here that I finally purchased my first piece of lacquerware. Like many of the other temples in Bagan, there were stalls set up out side the main temple in Myinkaba with craftsmen selling their wares. One gentleman had exquisite lacquerware pieces and we asked if he had a workshop nearby and if we could see how lacquerware was made. He answered "yes" to both questions and led us along a twisted, hilly path through Myinkaba to his family's workshop.

On our way to the lacquerware workshop

Once we arrived at his workshop, the artisan and his sister proceeded to explain the many steps that go into making quality lacquerware. Each piece starts with a bamboo base and is coated with clay to create a waterproof surface. Then the lacquer is applied in thin layers, allowed to completely dry and then another layer is applied. High quality pieces have 8-14 layers of lacquer.

Lacquer waiting to be applied to the bamboo base

Artisan using his fingers to apply the lacquer

Megan listening intently as the laquerware process is explained

After all of the layers are applied, the intricate designs are then carved into the surface and filled in with color. This workshop also uses copper wire and palm tree wood to create beautiful designs on their lacquerware.

Burmese woman carving a beautiful design

Carving tools and a work in progress

After showing us the whole process, the family brought us into their living room/workshop and proceeded to show us a huge variety of different lacquerware pieces from bracelets to huge storage containers, each one more beautiful than the next. The entire family was sitting in the room, and we were offered fruit, candy, and water. After some tough negotiation, we each walked out with 2-3 pieces of beautiful artwork and the knowledge that we helped a family make a living. 

Two happy customers!

Playing Indiana Jones in Bagan

I love watching the Indiana Jones movies (Except that last abomination. Why, Harrison Ford, WHY??) When I was younger I used to pretend that I was an archeologist, digging up buried treasure in the back yard and exploring abandoned buildings. I just knew that I would find some evidence of an ancient civilization or extinct species that they would then name after me. Even though I never made that great discovery, to this day every time I hear the Indiana Jones theme song, it makes me want to go on an adventure!

When Sarah, Megan and I were in the planning stages of our trip to Myanmar, we knew the the one place we HAD to visit was Bagan. This area of Myanmar has over 2,000 ancient Buddhist temples all built between the 11th and 13th century. Most of the temples are original, although some have been rebuilt due to earthquakes. 

Our preferred way to see the temples of Bagan was to rent a bicycle and start before sunrise. This way we not only got to watch the sun rise over the vast fields full of temples, but it was also much cooler and there were fewer touts trying to sell us sand paintings. We would set off from our hotel and randomly choose a dirt path that connected to the main road. This dirt path would lead us through farm fields and past thatch huts to temples both small and large. 

The best part of the temples in Bagan is that we were free to explore and I could live out my dream of being Indiana Jones. We walked around inside and saw the beautiful paintings and we took a tour of the outside and saw the ornate carvings that are still there even after 1000 years! And some of the temples held a super secret surprise- narrow and dark stairs that led to the top of the temple and a birds eye view of the whole area. Stunning!

Temples surrounded by farm fields

Farmer using oxen and a wooden plow

Bagan at Sunset

A young woman selling her wares

Yes, yes we did climb all of those stairs

 

Many of the temples had similar corner carvings